If there is no water in the bellows, it could be the o-ring but you need to be sure now. I assume the first step is a pressure test, but if the drive does not hold pressure, how do I go about diagnosing the problem. Reach between the drive and the bell housing and make sure the shift cable linkage jaws a open up and release the shift cable end b. With all of the steps contracted, it's easy to take a look at the materials and tools needed, so that if you were planning to do all of these steps in one trip to the boat, you would be able to gather up everything you needed to bring with you. In my case, there was actually water sitting under the oil when I drained it.
Basically you want to remove your old anodes a and replace them with new ones. The kluge as you refer to it, had to look that one up will also of course detect water in leg probably its most valuable asset. Re: The dreaded milky outdrive oil!! I did notice that the upper plug seemed to be a bit loose when I unscrewed it, so I'm hoping thats the culprit. The props do not have to be removed to replace this one. Once it is seated, rotate the fitting about a quarter turn clockwise so that it points toward the transom c. Shaking the drive up and down a bit should help it come out more easily. Also rinse it with water afterwards and allow to dry completely or dry it off with compressed air.
Don't be shy with the grease, you want the new O-rings to be able to slide all the way up into their groove, and you want plenty of grease on the splines for when it engages with the engine coupler. Hold the shift linkage assembly a out as far as it will go with a pair of pliers. Lots of people skip this procedure and don't perform it unless they have a real need to remove the prop, but as you can see above, this procedure is recommended every 2 to 4 months. Using some kind of dropper or something might be a less messy method, so let me know if you have any suggestions. For all other information regarding Adjustments, Removal of oil seals, clutch, transfer box and gearbox unit, consult the appropriate Repair Manual for the model concerned.
This will help the nuts go on and off without difficulty, and help prevent corrosion. Press the new O-rings into these grooves, and smear the grease onto the exposed O-ring surfaces. You could also use a rag and some spray solvent to get the worst out of there, but be careful not to use a solvent strong enough to damage the plastic. This locks it into place. Top off the gear oil reservoir. It may have moved around, so you need to check its position before reattaching the trim cylinders.
There is a vent screw and washer at the top of the drive. My plan for spring is to drain the oil, put on new o-rings and pressure test. Once the drive is firmly in place, put the 5 washers and 6 nuts back on the bell housing studs. Bellows can and do fail for reasons other than age,in my experience, so no idea how regular changes will preclude that problem. On Bravo Threes, it goes aft, away from the boat. Not to hijack the thread, but that is a really interesting concept.
If you haven't drained the gear oil, well, then try again next year. Again, read the directions on the can. If it holds pressure I will re-fill and go back in the water. This is an important step to keep your boat shifting smoothly and prolonging the life of your shift cables! Assuming it is in good shape, with minimal corrosion, here is the minimum you should do. Now pull the drive complete away from the boat. I squeeze Special Lubricant 101 on the cable and smear it around with my fingers.
If it doesn't hold pressure I will attempt to diagnose from there. When I drained the oil last weekend I saw for the first time the dreaded milk color. Grease the underside of the lower lip c with Special Lubricant 101. Q, Will this Manual expire in 12 months or will I have to pay a renewal fee? If you had to disconnect the speedometer earlier, now is the time to reconnect it. Is this a trial or a limited version? Hundreds of clear, close-up photos and illustrations in the Mercruiser repair manual help the reader thoroughly understand the job at hand. Volvo drives are expensive last time I looked and sei dont make a substitute either.
It is our endeavor to provide an all inclusive guidebook that can solve all This is the Official Service Manual that the dealers and shops use. There should be plenty of thread left exposed to attach the 2 trim cylinder caps e. Thanks for all the input. If there is a lot of metal stuck to the magnet, you may have an internal problem that needs to be checked by a professional. Apply approximately 3-6 pumps of grease, until a small amount of grease begins to push out of the bearings b.
As you slide the sterndrive on, make sure the shift cable b engages with the shift linkage jaws a. I won't go into a lot of detail here, because the process could be very different depending on the condition of your drive. Re: The dreaded milky outdrive oil!! There are three on the shaft at the top of the drive two thick and one thin , a thick round one around the shift cable linkage jaws, a funky shaped one around the water passage on the drive, and a small one on the bell housing the part still attached to the boat around the gear oil check valve. Take the 4 black rubber bushings b and apply a liberal amount of 2-4-C Marine Lubricant to them, and insert them into the trim cylinder pivot ends a with the smaller diameter going inside the pivot ends. I was less concerned about rust and more concerned about the case splitting due to ice. That boat never had an intermediate bearing failure in all that time which I believe is unusually good performance. Pull the sterndrive away from the boat, but don't let it get more than about two inches from the bell housing.
Be sure to use new screws and don't forget to use the star-shapred continuity washers as well. Can I print out a page? Slide the new O-rings onto the shaft one at a time, until they are all in place. This first section deals with stuff that needs to be done from the inside of the boat. Note: if you have a Bravo I, do not reinstall the prop at this time, since it needs to be removed in order to change the gear oil in the next step. Sure saves on leg failures and intermediate bearing repairs due to water in boot--you know right away when the boot fails,fix it promptly and grease up the intmdt.